Blush comes in cream, gel, stick, or liquid formulas (in which case it should be applied before face powder), as well as powder formula. Here, I'm going to assume you're using powder blush. A good-sized blush brush - not the dinky plastic one that comes with many powder blushes - is essential for creating a natural-looking result. Run the brush gently over the blush powder, then hold the brush at the apple of your cheek. Using small strokes, softly sweep the brush up the cheekbone, toward the hairline. For an especially realistic look, sweep a bit of blush across the top of the forehead, the chin, and the bridge of your nose.
Where does a natural blush come from? Blood vessels, which lie directly under the skin. When we're aroused, embarrassed, excited, or active, these blood vessels enlarge, allowing a greater amount of blood to flow to the skin. The result of this is visible as flushed cheeks.
Applying Mascara
Mascara is often applied after eye shadow, but it can be applied before in fact, I like to apply mascara before shadow simply because I always spatter mascara everywhere which can ruin a painted eye. Whichever you choose, if you curl lashes, it should be done before applying mascara. After you curl your lashes, you can make lashes look lusher, and help mascara to adhere better, if you lightly dust lashes with a bit of face powder. Next, close one eye and paint the upper side of the upper lashes. Then, open the eye and apply mascara to the inner side of the upper lashes. Yes, I know this sounds weird, but trust meapplying mascara to both sides of your upper lashes gives you an amazingly luxurious look.
Lower lashes are strictly optional. I know makeup artists that won't do them, saying it gives the eye a droopy, overly made-up look. Mascara is also especially prone to smudging when applied on the lower lashes. That said, if you like wearing mascara on your lower lashes, hold the wand vertically and apply a light coat to lashes. let all lashes dry for a minute or two, and then comb through them with a lash comb to unclump them and create a more realistic-looking finish. Clean up any errant bits of mascara with a cotton swab dipped in a small amount of foundation, makeup remover, or moisturizer.
Don't set stuck in a rut. Every once in a while, experiment with your look by trying a new makeup product or playing with new ways to apply old favorites.
4.23.2008
Applying Blush and Mascara
Pink Cufflinks
Pink is an extremely beautiful color, it takes on the properties of the color red and mixes it with the beauty and simplicity of the color white. Just like the color red, pink can cause a person's heartbeat to increase, the respiration and blood pressure can increase as well just by looking at this eye-catching color.
People who use this pink are said to be very passionate, sexy, confident and in some cases care-free. This last statement is used because the color pink is related to youth, a time when there was nothing to worry about and we lived happily. The tones of pink people use can project an aggressive personality or a softer more carrying one. Those who use this color are also believed to live a happy life.
The color pink is used in rooms in order to reduce erratic behavior, it is also linked to the exquisite New York fashion and punk urban styles which bring sexy back. When someone gives flowers pink blossoms are usually the favorite because the color is not very common and also because it represents passion and romance.
Interesting facts about pink:
* In sports, light pink is said to be a color which calms and helps people relax this is also why some teams paint the opposing team's locker room with this color, a small advantage is still an advantage. - When it comes to strength-based olympic performance males loose strength when they see a great deal of pink and women gain strength when they are around the color.
* Pink makes people crave sugar which is why sweets taste better when they are served in pink plates or come out of a pink box. In the same note, the flavor of pink is related to cotton candy and grapefruit.
* Did you know that during the times of Nazis homosexuals were labeled with a pink triangle which represented their sexual orientation?
* In Catholic belief pink represents happiness and joy.
* In Japan the color pink is associated with males because it is linked to Sakura trees (cherry blossoms) that is used to represent the young Japanese warriors who died in battle while young (referring to samurai warriors)
* Marrakesh is known as the "Rose city" because of the color of its buildings, the reddish color of the ground.
Great examples of elegant pink cufflinks are:
* Stunning Pink Mother of Pearl Cuff Links: (cufflinksman.com, keyword: “CL-0009”) These are absolutely exquisite pink cufflinks which are rhodium-plated and have been polished to perfection, they feature several tones of pink which are sure to grab people's attention.
* Curved Pink CZ Crystal Cuff Links (cufflinksman.com, keyword: “CL-0011”): The many beautiful pink stones in these silver cufflinks is nothing less than elegant and sophisticated, they make a clear fashion statement.
* Pink & Pearl Silk Knot Cuff Links Trio (cufflinksman.com, keyword: “SK-0005”): Small, delicate and extremely elegant. These cufflinks are made from real silk and the threads have been carefully intertwined, perfect for those who love simplicity.
* Pink Strawberry Silk Knot Cuff Links (cufflinksman.com, keyword: “SK-0031”): Just like the Pink & Pearl Silk Knot trio, these full sized cufflinks are simple, elegant and are made with the most beautiful tone of pink silk you could find.
Natural is Best - The Most Flattering Shapes
Eyebrows create a flattering frame for the eyes and lend balance to the face. A well-shaped brow can also deflect attention from what you consider a flaw, such as close-set eyes or a wide nose. First, consider what you don't want: patchy, over-tweezed brows; tadpole brows with a thick inner corner and nearly nonexistent line; or brows tweezed into an unnatural halfmoon shape. Such misshapen lines create an unfavorable frame for the eye and diminish your good looks. For instance, too-thin brows can make your nose seem wider, tadpole brows lend a furrowed expression to your face, and half-moon brows give your face an appearance of permanent fright.
Limit your hair-removal activities to between, underneath, and at the outer edges of the brows. Shaping above the brow can lead to a flat, archless, unnatural-looking line.
Now consider what you do want: a realistic line following your natural brow shape. After all, when it comes to flattering shapes, nature has probably done much of the work for you.
Preparing to pluck
Ready to shape up those brows? Always bear in mind that your aim is to make the most of what you were born with. The best time to tweeze brows is after a shower or bath, when your hair is at its most pliable; this will make for easier and less painful plucking.
If you have especially sensitive skin, consider numbing the brow area with a topical analgesic such as Anbesol before plucking.
Tweezers at the ready
Stand or sit in front of a mirror. Natural light is ideal, but bright artificial light will also work. Identify obvious stray hairs between brows, under brows, and at brows' outer corners. Using a good-gripping pair of tweezers, grasp individual hairs near their roots. With swift, sharp movements, pluck hair in the direction it is growing.
Styling tips
If necessary, do minor reshaping. Unless your eyes are close-set or wide-set, brows should start at the inner corner of your eye and end slightly beyond the eye's outer corner. Removing hair judiciously along the underside of the brow creates more lid space, making small eyes appear larger and more open.
If your eyes are close-set, consider starting brows a few hairs farther from the eye's inner corner. Creating a wider space between the brows mimics the look of average-set eyes. If you have wide-set eyes, create the illusion of average-set eyes by starting brows closer to your nose, and then removing a few extra hairs from your brow ends. With a brow brush or an old toothbrush, brush brows vertically. Trim any individual hairs that are noticeably longer than the rest. As we age, our brow hairs often grow longer and more unruly. In other words, when you are 30, your brows may look tidy with no trimming, while at age 50 you may find numerous hairs in need of snipping!
Hand Made Perfume Bottles
Blown glass is definitely one of the oldest ancient techniques of creating hand made perfume bottles. It is believed that the ancient Egyptians are the original inventors of the glass making technique. The production of the metallurgy and the faience contributed a great deal in the manufacturing of glasses for a perfume bottle. The earliest Egyptian glass that was introduced to us came in a form of small beads and other pendants that were found in the area way back in the 3000 B.C. Glass was made by melting a combination of lime, soda and silica sand. The glass is formed through the chemical reaction and interaction of the heated sand and soda which produces a transparent flowing liquid. When the liquid is cooled down, the glass is formed instantly.
The first glass vessels first appeared in Egypt during the middle of the 2000 B.C. They were made by molding on a core that is made of sand and mud to form the interior of the vessel. The core is then submerged to a very viscous molten glass; the core will then be scraped out when the vessel has cooled down. During that time, the glass was referred to as an artificial semi-stone which was quite a costly novelty item. The aristocrats during that time did not own any glass workshop since it was a royal monopoly. When the decline of the royal power ended, the New Kingdom ended prompted a stop on the production of glass for a certain period of time. The revolutionary invention of the blown glass then took place in Syria in the 1st century B.C. However, the technique was not able to reach Alexandria until the later half of the the 2nd century B.C where the glass blowing was introduced by the Romans. The newest discovery gained an increase in production.
Blown glass perfume bottles were made by sticking a piece of molten glass to the end of a blowpipe and introducing pressurized air the other end of the pipe. This was entirely done by the blowing of the mouth. The artistic transformation of the shapes of the perfume bottles begins to emerge. The shape will then be cut using a copper wheel and then ground using an emery powder. When the perfume bottle has already took its shape, fine embellishments and other decorations were added by pinching the hot glass, adding handles and other features. The simple straight patterns could be transformed into a more intricate and complex shapes that adds up to the beauty of the perfume bottle. When the shape is already formed, coloring and hand painting takes places. It is then followed by placing the perfume bottles in a furnace that has a very hot temperature in order for the color to set in the glass making it permanent. After which, the bottles are left to cool down before they are used.
Today, the blow glass products still undergo the same process the way the ancient create them. No other primitive tools were added to the original ones.
Skin Care Diet - Enemies of Good Skin
Stress
You've had a bad week - or maybe a bad month. You've been working overtime, your child is going through a difficult phase, your boyfriend's eyes have started wandering, your boss seems to hate you, and you have insomnia. In other words, nothing in your life is going smoothly and you are feeling more stressed than ever. Chances are a few obvious pimples have sprung up since your life got so hectic. How do I know that? What do you think my face does when I'm feeling frazzled?
The reason for a spotty complexion is simple: When the body is under stress, it releases adrenal hormones, which are known generally as "stress hormones." These hormones generate a number of changes in skin, including breakouts, oily patches, dry patches sallowness, dark circles under the eyes, and rashes. Obviously, you can't avoid all forms of stress, but you can learn how to deal with them. Deep breathing, visualization, a professional or at-home massage, or even a spa-night at home can help relieve some of the tension.
Exercise boosts circulation, which in turn delivers oxygen-rich blood to the skin's surface. The short-term result is a beautiful glow. According to some skin-care experts, the long-term benefit of exercise is improved skin elasticity and more efftcient new cell growth.
Rough treatment
As resilient as skin is, it also has a delicate side. Aggressive handling can make skin appear worn, abused, and just plain old. What qualifies as rough treatment? Picking pimples, which can cause scars; using overly hot water, which can break small capillaries and make skin dry; tugging at skin, which can break down collagen and elastin fibers and lead to slackness; and using harsh skin-care products, which can cause sensitivities and redness.
Skin and your diet
Severe diets that skimp on calories and on one or more nutrients are detrimental to your skin, and so are eating habits that include plenty of complexion-spoiling fast food. Here's a rundown of common nutrient deficiencies and how they affect your complexion:
A lack of protein can lead to a dull, dry complexion and poor wound-healing.
A shortage of iron can result in a pale complexion.
A lack of vitamin A can produce dry skin or unexplained breakouts.
A deficiency in vitamin B Complex can result in cracks at the corners of the mouth, unexplained breakouts, impaired wound-healing, and pallor.
A lack of vitamin C can cause poor wound-healing, dullness, and easy bruising.
A shortage of vitamin E can lead to poor wound-healing and dry skin.
A lack of vitamin K can result in weak, broken, or distended facial capillaries.
Conditioner Basics - Conditioners for Dry or Damaged Hair
Do You Need a Conditioner? Not every hair type requires it but most of us do. Conditioner adds moisture to the hair - some of the product may even sneak under the protective cuticle layers to infuse the inner strands with a temporary surge of moisture. It lubricates strands, helping to reduce static electricity, keeping hair from getting dry and brittle, and making locks easy to brush.
Conditioner acts as a temporary spackle that fills in chinks in the cuticle layer. This keeps strands from tangling around each other as you brush and style your hair. Conditioner also forms a protective seal around hair, which forces the cuticle to lie flat - this flat surface reflects light and makes hair shine.
Lubricants and emollients are used in conditioners. They attract and lock in moisture. These can include vegetable oils, mineral oil, plant oil, and vitamin B derivatives. Proteins are popular conditioner ingredients and can include collagen, elastin, and amino acids, which are small, natural building blocks of hair that penetrate the cuticle to strengthen strands. Some conditioners contain shine enhancers such as dimethicone, which helps to smooth cuticles.
Choosing an after-shampoo conditioner
Because there is a wide variety of hair types and hair needs, there is also a wide variety of after-shampoo conditioner formulas. Sometimes called rinse-out, regular, everyday, or instant conditioners, these products are the ones you apply after every shampoo, leave on for 1 to 5 minutes, then rinse out.
Detanglers are very light conditioners. Their main purpose is to smooth strands and keep hair from tangling. Because they are not moisturerich, detanglers are best for fine hair, oily hair, or for use whenever you don't need a lot of moisturizing but still want hair to behave.
Body-building conditioners are great for fine, lank hair. Because they are so light, they don't add a lot of moisture. Instead they detangle hair and leave strands looking firmer, thicker, and fuller. Balancing or normal hair conditioners are middle-of-the-road conditioners that are not too light, not too heavy. This makes them ideal for normal hair. For those of you who can't give up your blow dryers, look for thermal formulas.
Low pH products cause the hair's cuticle layer to clamp tightly shut, which protects the inner strand from moisture loss and creates terriftc shine. For the glossiest results, look for a conditioner with a pH of 3.0 to 3.5.
Conditioners for dry or damaged hair
Conditioners for dry or chemically treated hair are heavier than those for normal hair and take into account the special needs of moisture-starved dry or chemically treated hair. These conditioners leave a bit of residue to lubricate and protect strands.
Conditioners for damaged hair use high concentrations of lubricants and proteins to nurture hair that is fragile, frayed, ultra-dry, or injured by color, permanent waves, or relaxing services. Damaged hair formulas leave some protective residue on strands to keep locks moisturized and insulated from further damage.
Spray-on conditioners are great for those of you with dry, damaged, wavy, curly or frizzprone hair. Just mist on craggy looking spots whenever needed.
Nail Tips and Art - Enhancing Your Nails
Gel nails
Gel nails, or gel systems as they are also called, are a newer type of nail enhancement that are created by applying layers of resin to the nail; these layers combine and harden to form a solid nail. Depending on the formula a particular nail technician uses, nails are hardened with an ultraviolet curing light or under ordinary room lighting. Gel nails are among the most natural-looking of the nail enhancements - something to keep in mind if you want nails that look like your own, only longer and stronger.
Using nail tips
Nail tips are one of the oldest forms of nail enhancements. Preformed plastic nail shapes are applied to the natural nail plate with nail glue. Sometimes they cover the nail from the cuticle to the end, but more frequently they are applied midway down the nail plate. To get a smoother finish, some nail techs may apply acrylics, gel, or wraps over either the natural "untipped" nail or both the natural nail and the newly affixed nail tip. The entire shape is then sanded and filed into the length and shape you want.
Nail art
Perhaps you're a showy type, someone who loves to express herself through her appearance. For you, a shockingly bright, trendy-colored nail isn't enough. You want to set yourself apart from the manicured crowd. From the sound of it, you are a nail art kind of gal. Nail art is not so much a way to augment nails' length as it is a way to enhance their appearance.
There are several ways you can dress up nails. Decals - much like the decals you got from boxes of sugared cereal, and stuck on windows or your own body as a kid - are an easy way to add whimsy to your nails. Most nail salons have a selection of seasonal (jack o'lanterns, snowflakes) as well as standard (roses, stars) designs. These are embedded in slightly sticky nail color. When nail color is dry, a swipe of top coat keeps decals secure.
Decorative nails
Nail jewelry can be expensive 14-karat gold, but it is usually made of cheaper silveror gold-colored metals. Most nail jewelry comes in simple designs, such as initials, stars, and hearts; it is applied just like nail decals. For those with very long nails, there is another type of nail jewelry: earrings for nails. If you're interested, your nail technician will actually pierce one of your nails and install a stud or a small hoop. Nail detailing, sometimes simply called nail art, uses extra-fine paintbrushes and several colors of nail polish, which your nail technician uses to paint scenes onto the nail. The finished product depends greatly on your nail technician's skill as a fine artist.
Brushing - Using Combs and Picks
Combs and picks aren't necessary for everyone: some people use them, others simply rake gently through hair with their fingers. If you are a comb or pick user, look for a model with rounded, widely spaced teeth - these are gentler on hair than pointytipped, fine-toothed combs. Furthermore, make sure each individual tooth is smooth, without cracks or burs that can catch hair and rip away strands' cuticle layer. Hard rubber, hard silicone, and polished wood are the most hair-friendly materials
Brushing techniques There are two reasons to brush your hair. The most obvious one is grooming - your coif looks messy, so you brush it into submission. For this type of brushing, work gently and do as little as possible: too much brushing can upset your style: The other reason for brushing is sclap and hair health too much brushing can upset your style. The other reason for brushing is scalp and hair health. Now I realize that a bit of controversy surrounds this type of hair brushing. Some people believe the less you brush your hair, the healthier it will be; other folks claim that faithful brushing keeps the hair and scalp healthy by clearing away debris from the scalp and strands, massaging the scalp, and distrbuting moisturizing sebum through hair.
Regular brushing gives hair a natural shine and is said to create locks that are healthier, more manageable, and easier to style.
My own opinion is what I call "moderately pro-brushing." Through experience I've found a thorough brushing not only makes my hair look prettier, it dissuades oil from pooling around my roots and lifts dry flaky skin cells off my scalp. The best time to give your hair a thorough brushing is right before you hit the shower. I'll admit this is a bit arbitrary so if you want to give yourself a thorough brushing in the middle of the day or before going out at night, go ahead. However, be aware that intense brushing loosens dead scalp flakes, which gives your hair a "dandruffy" look. Also, if you have wavy or curly hair, an in-depth brushing can create an electric, high-frizz finish. (Now you see why I like to hit the shower after brushing!)
Handy hints
You've been brushing your hair for years - do you really need someone to tell you how to do it? Maybe not, but I'm nonetheless going to tell you what I've picked up from several dozen hairdressers. Before you whip out the brush, take a wide-tooth comb or use your fingers and gently go through the ends of your hair to remove tangles, knots, snarls, and so on. Bend over at the waist. Start at one ear and, working around the neckline, brush in long strokes from scalp to tip.
I do not believe in giving tresses 100 strokes a day - after all, too much of any good thing can, with time, create damage. Each section needs only two or three "rake-throughs" before you move on.
After you've finished working the neckline, remain bent over and separate your hair from nape to crown as if you were creating two ponytails. Starting at the nape and working toward the crown, brush strands on one side of the horizontal part. Repeat with the hair on the other side of the part.
Only dry hair should be brushed. Damp or wet hair is weak and vulnerable to breaking. If you must detangle wet hair, do it in the shower while you have conditioner in your hair. Work gently and use a wide-tooth comb or hair pick.
Stand up. Brush hair around the hairline by starting at one ear, moving toward the opposite ear, and directing hair back off the face. When you've finished, part hair in the center. Brush the hair on one side of the part. Repeat on the other side. Note: Those of you with curls or very thick hair may have to create a few more sections to ensure that every part of your scalp and hair gets brushed.
Those of us with longer hair, fragile hair, or hair that we're trying to grow must be more mindful of how we handle our strands.
Beauty and Makeup Artists - Getting to Know You
My blue-eyed, scandinavian-blonde sister looks gorgeous in icy shades; every time we go to a makeup counter together I reach for softly colored lipsticks, blushes, and eye shadows to swipe on the back of her hand. After 15 minutes, her skin is covered with rose, carnation, lilac, lavender, mauve, and silver streaks. "I am not buying anything pastel!" she says, trying to move out of my reach. No matter how pretty she looks in these shades, she will never wear them; she says she hates pastels because they are "too girly, too prissy." Still, I press these colors on her, although I always promise to stop because I know how she feels.
When makeup artists see my yellowy skin, dark blonde hair, and green eyes, they immediately move toward me with terracotta and apricot eye shadows, bronze blush, and bright, brick-red lipstick. While these shades do complement my eyes beautifully, they make my teeth and the whites of my eyes appear yellow, in turn making me feel even more yellow than I already am. For this reason, I will never buy orangey-earth shades no matter how many compliments I get while wearing them. Why am I telling you all this? To point out the importance of personal tastes.
Establishing what you like
Maybe several cosmetic salespeople have suggested that cream foundation would work well with your dry skin, but you detest the product's rich texture. Perhaps you adore loden eyeliner even though everyone tells you navy blue would better suit your complexion. People may recommend some contouring in the hollow of your cheeks to accentuate your bone structure, despite the fact you hate contour. What to do? I am all for ignoring other people's advice and following your own tastes - after all, makeup is not only for helping us look and feel better, but also for expressing ourselves, and our likes and dislikes come into that category.
Interested in trying out a certain type of blush, color of eye shadow, or new type of mascara? Head to the cosmetic counter at a nearby department store or makeup artist boutique, where you can test makeup for free. If you like the item after wearing it for 3 or 4 hours, you can return and purchase it.
That said, don't dismiss a cosmetic until you've tried it - which means wearing it in public for a day. This is important because you can't always immediately tell what you will love or hate. For instance, one of my favorite cosmetics is a highlighting cream from Face Stockholm. I had never considered wearing highlighter - for some reason, I always associated it with disco. But one day, I was in New York City's Face Stockholm store with my sister (yes, I was painting pastel stripes on her hands) when I saw a display of several highlighting creams. A month earlier, someone had told me that Caroline Bessette Kennedy used to wear this particular highlighter. Being envious of Bessette Kennedy's naturally glowing skin, I decided to dab some highlighter on my cheekbones and temples. It looked great and not at all disco-like. After wearing the highlighter around Manhattan for a few hours - and still loving the way it looked - I returned to the store and bought it.
Beauty Peels - Big-deal Treatments
When it comes to beauty, a general rule of thumb is "the less the pain, the less dramatic the gain." Keep this in mind if you're looking for big results. For instance, if you'd like to create a satiny-smooth finish on pockmarked skin, eradicate moderate lines, or restore firmness to a slack area of the face, the quick "lunchtime" procedures we have just described probably won't give you what you want. However, there are more intensive procedures available.
Not all big-deal treatments are performed in hospital. In fact, many are done in a dermatologist's in-office surgery suite.
TCA peels
With the advent of laser resurfacing, PhotoFacials, and microbrasion treatments, the TCA peel has waned in popularity. Named after its active ingredient, trichloroacetic acid, the TCA peel is a medium-deep treatment that "freshens" the skin, removes some sun damage and rough scaly patches, reduces freckles and irregular pigmentation, and softens fine wrinkles. There is some evidence that it may also reduce the risk of skin cancer by destroying precancerous cells. The treatment involves painting trichloroacetic acid onto clean skin until the skin whitens.
During the 24 hours following the procedure, your skin will be slightly swollen and red. Over the next few days, the treated skin dries to a crispy brown; to keep things moist, your doctor may suggest coating your face with a thick layer of Vaseline. Things get uglier: between days 5 and 7, the leathery skin begins peeling in large sheets.
As irresistible as picking at skin is after a skin treatment, let it peel at its own pace: pulling it can cause deep scars and infections. As soon as "lour face is done shedding, you can return to your regular skin-care routine.
Jessner's peel
The Jessner's peel resembles the TCA peel: a mediumdeep treatment that is designed to remove the top layers of skin, thus evening pigmentation, improving the skin's texture, and minimizing fine lines. Instead of containing trichloroacetic acid, however, the Jessner's peel consists of a mixture of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol.
The Jessner's peel solution is applied to clean skin. Immediately afterward, your skin will be red and slightly swollen, and after 3 or 4 days, it will become dry and tight. At this point it should begin to crack and peel; to keep things moist, your doctor may suggest coating your face with a thick layer of petroleum jelly. After 5 to 7 days, skin should be healed enough for you to return to your regular skin-care routine.
On dark skin, olive-toned skin, or skin that scars easily, chemical peels, laser treatments, and dermabrasion can cause scarring, light colored patches, or dark patches. Do not consider any of these resurfacing treatments before getting a dermatologist's evaluation.
Hair - How Hair Grows
As each strand of hair grows, it moves through three development stages: anagen, catagen, and telogen. The anagen stage is your hair's growth period, which typically lasts from 3 to 5 years. At the end of the growth period, the follicle prepares for a rest. The transition period - which typically lasts a month - is called the catagen stage. During this stage, the strand is still secure in the follicle but the lower portion of the follicle collapses. The telogen stage, the resting period, lasts for about 3 to 4 months. At the end of the resting stage, the hair falls from the follicle, a new hair begins to grow, and a new anagen phase begins.
Hair grows about one half-inch (1.2 cm) per month. A normal healthy hair is as strong as copper wire of the same diameter.
Straight or curly
I should also mention that your hair's curl pattern - or lack thereof - is formed deep in the follicle. Here, at the hair's roots, your strands are soft and pliable, adapting themselves to the shape of the surrounding hair follicles. If your follicles are genetically round, they'll create straight hairs; slightly oval follicles produce wavy hair; and flat-oval follicles produce curly hair. Study a cross-section of a straight strand, and you'll see the hair's round shape; study a cross-section of wavy hair, and you'll notice the oval shape; if you cut across a curly strand, you'll see the hair's ovoid shape.
What does all this have to do with curls? A circular cross-section of hair - or yarn, or string, or wire - boasts equal strength in all directions across the fiber. Because this shape features no weaker areas, hair hangs rigidly without coiling in on itself. As with all wirelike entities, an oval or flat-oval cross-section of hair is strongest across the wide part of the cross-section and weakest across the narrow crosssection. Weaker areas aren't rigid like strong areas. Instead, they are flexible and likely to twist around. This means wavy or curly hair boasts enough flexibility through its narrow cross-section to encourage strands to flex (wavy hair) or coil (curly hair).
As the wavy-haired daughter of a straight-haired mother, I feel obliged to offer this advice: Do not make your curly-haired child feel selfconscious about her hair! This can damage her confidence and lead to later abuse of blow-dryers and straighteners. Do not continually ask your child if she has brushed her hair - no amount of brushing is going to make curly hair smooth and it can make it even messier!
Shampoo Basics - Should I Wash My Hair Every Day?
Unless your hair is supremely oily, washing hair every day is not only unnecessary, it can be damaging. Taking every other day off from shampoo - or even 2 or more days off if your hair is dry or damaged - gives your hair a break from the detergents and the inevitable roughness that comes with shampooing, both of which can rough up hair's protective cuticle layer. A day away from shampoo also allows sebum - hair's natural conditioner - to get a foothold in individual strands. And for those who are trying to live life more simply (read: use less stuff, shampooing less frequently means using less shampoo.
Most of us like suds, which is why shampoo manufacturers often make high-foaming formulas. Yet suds have nothing to do with a shampoo's cleansing power. In fact, the lesser-foaming formulas are gentler on hair.
When I was a teenager, my friends and I never admitted to washing our hair any less than once a day - in fact, some of my friends used to brag about washing their hair twice a day. I told this story to a hairstylist once and he laughed. "For some strange reason, people get squeamish if you tell them to stop washing their hair every day. It's as if they think easing up on the shampoo is going to make them unclean," he said. After years of interviewing hairstylists and dermatologists, I've learned exactly what he is saying - and it has nothing to do with giving up bathing or showering.
Go ahead and get in the shower, go ahead and get your hair wet - just don't pull out the shampoo. I think you'll find that a good pre-shower brushing and a heavy dousing of old-fashioned plain water will do wonders for your hair. The brushing loosens up dirt, dead flaky skin, debris, and excess scalp oil, which the water then rinses away. If you're worried about tangles, go ahead and work a bit of detangler or a light conditioner through wet ends then rinse out - again, just no shampoo.
4.08.2008
Conditioner Basics - Conditioners for Dry or Damaged Hair
Do You Need a Conditioner? Not every hair type requires it but most of us do. Conditioner adds moisture to the hair - some of the product may even sneak under the protective cuticle layers to infuse the inner strands with a temporary surge of moisture. It lubricates strands, helping to reduce static electricity, keeping hair from getting dry and brittle, and making locks easy to brush.
Conditioner acts as a temporary spackle that fills in chinks in the cuticle layer. This keeps strands from tangling around each other as you brush and style your hair. Conditioner also forms a protective seal around hair, which forces the cuticle to lie flat - this flat surface reflects light and makes hair shine.
Lubricants and emollients are used in conditioners. They attract and lock in moisture. These can include vegetable oils, mineral oil, plant oil, and vitamin B derivatives. Proteins are popular conditioner ingredients and can include collagen, elastin, and amino acids, which are small, natural building blocks of hair that penetrate the cuticle to strengthen strands. Some conditioners contain shine enhancers such as dimethicone, which helps to smooth cuticles.
Choosing an after-shampoo conditioner
Because there is a wide variety of hair types and hair needs, there is also a wide variety of after-shampoo conditioner formulas. Sometimes called rinse-out, regular, everyday, or instant conditioners, these products are the ones you apply after every shampoo, leave on for 1 to 5 minutes, then rinse out.
Detanglers are very light conditioners. Their main purpose is to smooth strands and keep hair from tangling. Because they are not moisturerich, detanglers are best for fine hair, oily hair, or for use whenever you don't need a lot of moisturizing but still want hair to behave.
Body-building conditioners are great for fine, lank hair. Because they are so light, they don't add a lot of moisture. Instead they detangle hair and leave strands looking firmer, thicker, and fuller. Balancing or normal hair conditioners are middle-of-the-road conditioners that are not too light, not too heavy. This makes them ideal for normal hair. For those of you who can't give up your blow dryers, look for thermal formulas.
Low pH products cause the hair's cuticle layer to clamp tightly shut, which protects the inner strand from moisture loss and creates terriftc shine. For the glossiest results, look for a conditioner with a pH of 3.0 to 3.5.
Conditioners for dry or damaged hair
Conditioners for dry or chemically treated hair are heavier than those for normal hair and take into account the special needs of moisture-starved dry or chemically treated hair. These conditioners leave a bit of residue to lubricate and protect strands.
Conditioners for damaged hair use high concentrations of lubricants and proteins to nurture hair that is fragile, frayed, ultra-dry, or injured by color, permanent waves, or relaxing services. Damaged hair formulas leave some protective residue on strands to keep locks moisturized and insulated from further damage.
Spray-on conditioners are great for those of you with dry, damaged, wavy, curly or frizzprone hair. Just mist on craggy looking spots whenever needed.
Nail Tips and Art - Enhancing Your Nails
Gel nails
Gel nails, or gel systems as they are also called, are a newer type of nail enhancement that are created by applying layers of resin to the nail; these layers combine and harden to form a solid nail. Depending on the formula a particular nail technician uses, nails are hardened with an ultraviolet curing light or under ordinary room lighting. Gel nails are among the most natural-looking of the nail enhancements - something to keep in mind if you want nails that look like your own, only longer and stronger.
Using nail tips
Nail tips are one of the oldest forms of nail enhancements. Preformed plastic nail shapes are applied to the natural nail plate with nail glue. Sometimes they cover the nail from the cuticle to the end, but more frequently they are applied midway down the nail plate. To get a smoother finish, some nail techs may apply acrylics, gel, or wraps over either the natural "untipped" nail or both the natural nail and the newly affixed nail tip. The entire shape is then sanded and filed into the length and shape you want.
Nail art
Perhaps you're a showy type, someone who loves to express herself through her appearance. For you, a shockingly bright, trendy-colored nail isn't enough. You want to set yourself apart from the manicured crowd. From the sound of it, you are a nail art kind of gal. Nail art is not so much a way to augment nails' length as it is a way to enhance their appearance.
There are several ways you can dress up nails. Decals - much like the decals you got from boxes of sugared cereal, and stuck on windows or your own body as a kid - are an easy way to add whimsy to your nails. Most nail salons have a selection of seasonal (jack o'lanterns, snowflakes) as well as standard (roses, stars) designs. These are embedded in slightly sticky nail color. When nail color is dry, a swipe of top coat keeps decals secure.
Decorative nails
Nail jewelry can be expensive 14-karat gold, but it is usually made of cheaper silveror gold-colored metals. Most nail jewelry comes in simple designs, such as initials, stars, and hearts; it is applied just like nail decals. For those with very long nails, there is another type of nail jewelry: earrings for nails. If you're interested, your nail technician will actually pierce one of your nails and install a stud or a small hoop. Nail detailing, sometimes simply called nail art, uses extra-fine paintbrushes and several colors of nail polish, which your nail technician uses to paint scenes onto the nail. The finished product depends greatly on your nail technician's skill as a fine artist.
Beauty and Makeup Artists - Getting to Know You
My blue-eyed, scandinavian-blonde sister looks gorgeous in icy shades; every time we go to a makeup counter together I reach for softly colored lipsticks, blushes, and eye shadows to swipe on the back of her hand. After 15 minutes, her skin is covered with rose, carnation, lilac, lavender, mauve, and silver streaks. "I am not buying anything pastel!" she says, trying to move out of my reach. No matter how pretty she looks in these shades, she will never wear them; she says she hates pastels because they are "too girly, too prissy." Still, I press these colors on her, although I always promise to stop because I know how she feels.
When makeup artists see my yellowy skin, dark blonde hair, and green eyes, they immediately move toward me with terracotta and apricot eye shadows, bronze blush, and bright, brick-red lipstick. While these shades do complement my eyes beautifully, they make my teeth and the whites of my eyes appear yellow, in turn making me feel even more yellow than I already am. For this reason, I will never buy orangey-earth shades no matter how many compliments I get while wearing them. Why am I telling you all this? To point out the importance of personal tastes.
Establishing what you like
Maybe several cosmetic salespeople have suggested that cream foundation would work well with your dry skin, but you detest the product's rich texture. Perhaps you adore loden eyeliner even though everyone tells you navy blue would better suit your complexion. People may recommend some contouring in the hollow of your cheeks to accentuate your bone structure, despite the fact you hate contour. What to do? I am all for ignoring other people's advice and following your own tastes - after all, makeup is not only for helping us look and feel better, but also for expressing ourselves, and our likes and dislikes come into that category.
Interested in trying out a certain type of blush, color of eye shadow, or new type of mascara? Head to the cosmetic counter at a nearby department store or makeup artist boutique, where you can test makeup for free. If you like the item after wearing it for 3 or 4 hours, you can return and purchase it.
That said, don't dismiss a cosmetic until you've tried it - which means wearing it in public for a day. This is important because you can't always immediately tell what you will love or hate. For instance, one of my favorite cosmetics is a highlighting cream from Face Stockholm. I had never considered wearing highlighter - for some reason, I always associated it with disco. But one day, I was in New York City's Face Stockholm store with my sister (yes, I was painting pastel stripes on her hands) when I saw a display of several highlighting creams. A month earlier, someone had told me that Caroline Bessette Kennedy used to wear this particular highlighter. Being envious of Bessette Kennedy's naturally glowing skin, I decided to dab some highlighter on my cheekbones and temples. It looked great and not at all disco-like. After wearing the highlighter around Manhattan for a few hours - and still loving the way it looked - I returned to the store and bought it.